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We design the most durable trekking gear possible so you don't have to buy more. But the lifespan of the equipment doesn’t just depend on its original quality: looking after it properly is the way to guarantee you keep it for as long as possible!
Lets find out how can we do that for the following equipments. Here are some of the most commonly used equipment.
You've dragged your backpack along on trails, in the mud, in the dust, on the grass, in the luggage store of a bus and it's lost its sparkle. Then it’s high time to clean it!
Not a good idea: Above all, never ever put your Trekking backpack in the washing machine.
8 steps to cleaning a backpack:
- Completely empty the bag
- Remove the foam and frame if your bag allows and if you are certain you can put them back
- Vacuum all over to get rid of the dust on the bag and zips
- Put the bag in a bath, shower or bowl
- Get hold of a stiff brush
- Wash the bag in soapy water (Marseille soap or shower gel)and rub the stains with the brush
- If the carry foams are still on the bag, rinse them well and squeeze out the water
- Then wipe the foams and the rest of the bag using a micro fibre cloth
All you need to do now is leave your bag to dry in the fresh air in a dry place, ideally away from sunlight as UV rays age the fabric. If you ever need to revitalise the water-repellent properties of your bag, you can use a reactivating spray once the bag is thoroughly dry.
What to do with your bag when you get home? Trekking season is over and you're packing your equipment away until spring. Firstly, make sure your bag is completely clean by following the instructions above. Then clip all the backpack’s straps so nothing is dragging, it would be a shame if they got dusty on the way from the cupboard!
To store it, choose a dry, shady space so the sun's rays don't speed up your bag's ageing. If you only have space in the cellar and it’s damp, don't put your bags near the walls and be sure to put it on a shelf. Then it will be protected from the damp until the fine days return!
You're getting ready to head back on the trails but...your bag has a broken clip or zip or even a hole! Don't worry, we explain it all below. And if your bag can't be repaired, don't forget all our backpacks are guaranteed for 10 years! Good news, you should be able to fix this problem in less than a minute as our bags are designed to be repaired easily!
The most difficult thing is working out which type of clip you need to replace:
- Chest clip or chest strap
- Stomach clip (38 mm)
- Clips on the bag’s top flap (20 or 25 mm depending on the bag)
- Clips on the bag’s side compression straps (20 or 25 mm depending on the bag)
- Clips and straps under the bag (25 mm)
Backpack fabrics are usually reinforced, especially on the base which is more exposed to friction. Nevertheless, wear and tear or a sharp object can cause holes.
Is your zip broken? We do everything possible to give you quality zips but sometimes it's not enough... Go to your in store workshop or a professional tailor. Changing a zip without any sewing skills is a bit tricky. But it means you will be able to enjoy your bag for many years so it's worth it!
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Once you've found the right fit, you want to enjoy your boots for as long as possible! Check out our tips to ensure a long life for your favourite boots. 4 STEPS TO LOOKING AFTER YOUR LEATHER BOOTS PROPERLY: Wash and dry, Lubricate, Re-waterproof, Storage
You may not know it, but mud, water and the elements you encounter in the great outdoors weaken the leather of your boots and cause them to lose flexibility and water-repellence. Washing your hiking boots well is the way to guarantee keeping them longer!
Step 1: washing
If the boots are muddy: let the soil dry and then knock it off by tapping the boots against each other. Then remove the laces from the boots: if they’re dirty, put them in the washing machine. Also remove the insole to prevent it from soaking up water during cleaning. Then, take the soapy sponge and clean the boot. If a little mud remains in the recesses of the boot, use a soft brush to dislodge it. Be careful when using the brush: proceed gently so as not to scratch the leather.
What about the inside of your boots? If you’re short of time, you can cheat a bit by using a boot deodorant or shake in some baking soda to absorb odours. Otherwise, remove the insole (also called a “sock liner”) and check if it's time to change it. Avoid rubbing the inside at all costs, as this could damage the internal membranes.
Step 2: Drying is an important step in boot care because, if done incorrectly, you could damage your hiking boots.
Why lubricate leather boots? With time and bad weather, leather dries out and risks cracking, and isn’t as waterproof as it was in the early days. By nourishing your leather boots regularly, you prolong their life and ensure good waterproofing!
Good to know: lubrication is especially useful for full-grain leather.
Before any treatment, make sure your leather boots are clean and dry (see previous paragraphs). Remove or loosen the laces so that you can reach anywhere there’s leather. Moisten your soft cloth with grease then rub the leather in small circles to allow the grease to penetrate fully. Once the boot has been fully treated, wipe off the excess grease with a dry part of the soft cloth. Finally, leave to dry in a dry place at moderate temperature.
Boots that take on water can be a real problem when trekking or hiking. Greasing the leather of your boots is a good solution to reactivate water-repellency.
To go further, there are two other solutions (for non-varnished leather only) to reactivate the water-repellency of your boots:
- The applicator, precise and easy to use: just press the foam against the boot for it to soak up the treatment!
- The aerosol, fast and effective: apply outdoors, following the instructions for use.
Good to know: a boot that wasn’t waterproof originally cannot become waterproof! These treatments let you reactivate thewater-repellency of the leather, that is, its property to be hydrophobic and not absorb the droplets on its surface.
Best practices for storing leather boots:
- Boots must be clean, dry and lubricated
- Choose a dry storage location, at room temperature, away from any strong source of heat (radiator, boiler, etc).
- Stuff your boots with newspaper so they keep their shape while not in use!
Good to know: if you already have a storage bag for your boots to protect your clothes from the mud in your backpack, now is a good time to take it out! Your boots will thus be protected from dust during storage.
If you experience any pain, the insole may not or may no longer be suitable for you. So you can simply remove it and replace it with amore suitable insole. For any other concerns (smooth or loose outsole, torn membranes, etc), it’s best to call on the expertise of your favourite cobbler!
Good to know: you bought your boots several years ago, used them a little but they’ve been stored in a rather warm and humid place. They still look in perfect condition, but after a few steps, the outsole comes off? You’re a victim of what’s called hydrolysis. The polyurethane in the sole has crumbled, after hardening and becoming porous. Boots get more damaged if they’re not used! More a good for getting some fresh air !
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Looking after and storing your poles can extend their life and make them easier to use (adjustment and tightening in particular).Follow our advice to discover the joy of poles that slide perfectly! I recommend you don't try to oil or grease your poles (mechanisms or tubes). In fact, if lubricant gets on the surfaces that allow the pole to be tightened, it wouldn't work because there would be a risk of accident.
The aim is to have clean, dry poles. Separate all the sections (don't worry, our poles are designed in this way). Remove dust or, possibly, mud on tube surfaces and mechanisms. Also remember to do the inner walls of the sections.
If mud or dirt has accumulated in parts of the mechanism, you can clean it with water or dry with your toothbrush. If the mechanisms look greasy, you can degrease them with soap. Be sure to rinse with clean water afterwards. Dry completely. Once all the sections are dry, re-assemble the pole.
A LITTLE EXTRA TIP
If your poles need to be stored in the closet for a prolonged period (in winter for example), leave the blockers unscrewed. This way, you will maintain their locking power. And when they get back into use, still make sure they are well adjusted.
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